Why Paddling Is the Ideal Way to Explore Devon
There is a moment on every paddle — usually about fifteen minutes in, once you have found your rhythm and stopped worrying about capsizing — when the world narrows to the sound of water against the hull, the dip and pull of the paddle, and the scenery sliding past at precisely the right speed to actually see it. It is one of the most meditative things you can do outdoors.
Devon, with its network of rivers flowing off Dartmoor through ancient woodland and rolling countryside, its tidal estuaries rich with wildlife, and its dramatic coastline, is one of the finest places in England to paddle. And the best part is this: you do not need to be fit, experienced, or brave to start. The Exeter Ship Canal is flat, calm, and about as challenging as a bathtub. The Dart Estuary is sheltered and tidal, meaning you can let the current do most of the work. Even the sea kayaking around Exmouth is gentle enough for beginners on a calm day.
What makes paddling special as a social activity, though, is the way it requires cooperation. In a canoe, you are literally in the same boat — you have to paddle in time, communicate, and work together. In kayaks, you travel at the same pace, side by side, with conversation flowing as easily as the water. There is a reason that outdoor education programmes use paddling to build teams: it creates trust, shared experience, and the kind of mutual reliance that turns acquaintances into genuine friends.
Getting Started: The Exeter Canal and Quay
If you have never paddled before, start here. The Exeter Ship Canal is flat, sheltered, and surrounded by beautiful marshland and meadows. It is also home to three excellent hire centres that will put you on the water with minimal fuss.
Saddles & Paddles
Saddles & Paddles has been on Exeter Quay for around 25 years and has built a strong reputation as the go-to place for canoe and kayak hire in the city. Located on the historic quayside, just a five-minute walk from the city centre, they offer single and double kayaks, canoes, and stand-up paddleboards (SUP) for hire.
They are open seven days a week, 9am to 6pm (boat hire 10am to 5pm), though they close on Wednesdays in winter from November to April. All boat users must be able to swim 25 metres unaided. Booking is strongly advised, particularly on summer weekends, though no advance payment is required except for groups.
The most popular route from Saddles & Paddles is the paddle south along the canal to the Double Locks pub — about 45 minutes of gentle paddling through marshland, with herons, cormorants, and the occasional kingfisher for company. You can stop for a pint in one of Exeter's best beer gardens, then paddle back at your leisure. For the more ambitious, you can continue past the Double Locks to the Turf Hotel — a legendary pub accessible only on foot, by bike, by boat, or by paddle.
AS Watersports
AS Watersports is based right on Exeter Quay and specialises in premium equipment that gets renewed every season. They have a fleet of Red Paddle Co inflatable paddleboards alongside kayaks and canoes, and their easy-to-use pontoon makes launching smooth and safe — particularly reassuring if you are new to this.
They provide buoyancy aids, paddles, drybags, and access to changing rooms and toilets. The canal route to the Double Locks is their most popular trip, and they recommend allowing about two hours for the return journey with a stop for refreshments.
Booking online through their website is the easiest option, or you can call them on 01392 219600. They require 24 hours' notice for cancellations.
KayakHub Exeter
KayakHub Exeter is a family-run paddle centre offering hire, lessons, and guided trips from Exeter Quay. Their instructors have over 20 years of experience and are BCU (British Canoeing) qualified, making them an excellent choice if you want to learn proper technique rather than just splash about.
They offer single and double kayak hire, canoe hire (including four-seaters — ideal for families), SUP hire, and guided canoe and kayak trips. Their guided trips along the River Exe take in Topsham, the estuary, and Exmouth, where the wildlife can be spectacular — you may even spot seals.
KayakHub also runs guided sea kayaking trips, including half-day sessions and full-day trips from Totnes to Dartmouth or along the Kingswear coastline. These are a fantastic next step once you are comfortable on flat water.
The paddle from Exeter Quay to the Double Locks is the perfect first outing. It is flat, sheltered, and has a pub at the end — the three essential ingredients for a successful social paddle. Allow about two hours for the return trip including a stop. If you want to make more of a day of it, continue past the Double Locks to the Turf Hotel (add another 45 minutes each way) and reward yourselves with a meal on the waterside terrace.
The River Dart: Devon's Finest Paddle
If the Exeter Canal is your training ground, the River Dart is your graduation ceremony. This is one of the most beautiful rivers in England — flowing from its twin sources high on Dartmoor through the dramatic Dart Gorge, past ancient woodland and rolling farmland, before widening into a broad tidal estuary that winds through Totnes and on to Dartmouth and the sea.
The tidal estuary between Totnes and Dartmouth is the section most accessible to beginners. It is sheltered, scenic, and — crucially — tidal, which means you can time your trip to paddle with the current in both directions. The trick is to launch about two hours before high tide, paddle downstream with the flood, then turn around and ride the ebb back. The river does the hard work; you provide the steering.
Totnes Kayaks
Totnes Kayaks has been getting people out on the River Dart since 2005. They offer what might be the best access to the estuary, including an exclusive launch spot in the beautiful village of Stoke Gabriel, from where you are straight out into the most spectacular section of the waterway.
They offer kayaks and canoes for hire, with a minimum hire time of two hours. Three hours allows you to go further or have a more leisurely stop — a swim, a chill on a quiet bank, or a drink in a riverside pub. They welcome couples, groups, solo paddlers, and dogs. Group and family discounts are available.
Canoe Adventures
Canoe Adventures runs guided canoe trips on the River Dart that are genuinely special. Their approach is simple: paddle the beautiful estuary with a knowledgeable guide, stopping at riverside villages along the way. Starting points include Tuckenhay and Stoke Gabriel, with pubs and wildlife along the route.
Their most famous trip is the "Paddle to the Pub" — which does exactly what it says. You canoe downstream to a riverside pub, have lunch, and paddle back. They also run evening trips, BBQ adventures, and their legendary "Pub to Pub and Back by Moonlight" journeys, which are as atmospheric as they sound.
All equipment is provided, no experience is necessary, and booking is essential as departure times vary daily with the tide. Adult prices start at around £37.50.
Paddle Devon
Paddle Devon (formerly KayakHub Totnes) offers kayak and SUP hire as well as guided trips and lessons for all abilities on the Dart. They run everything from easy half-day canoe trips to full-day guided SUP trips, sea kayaking excursions, and overnight adventures.
Their base at Longmarsh in Totnes has a car park and easy-access slipway, making it straightforward to get on the water. Beginners, families, and dogs are all welcome.
The River Dart estuary is in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and paddling through it feels like travelling through a painting. The rolling hills of woodland and pasture flank the wide, sheltered waterway, herons stand motionless on the banks, and seals occasionally pop up to see what you are doing. For a proper adventure, you can canoe and wild camp from Totnes to Dartmouth over two days — several operators offer guided versions of this trip, including camping equipment and meals.
Sea Kayaking from Exmouth
Once you have some flat-water experience, sea kayaking opens up an entirely different dimension. The east Devon coast around Exmouth is one of the best places in the south-west to try it, with sheltered estuarine water, dramatic Jurassic Coast cliffs, and wildlife including seals, seabirds, and — on the estuary — avocets and wading birds.
Sea Kayak Exmouth
Sea Kayak Exmouth is the specialist here, offering guided sea kayak tours with expert local guides and coaches. They choose routes based on tide, weather, and what you want to experience, ensuring every trip makes the most of the conditions.
Their Exe Estuary route takes you from Exmouth to Topsham (or vice versa, depending on the tides), passing golden sands and encountering myriad wildlife including sandpipers, rare avocets, and grey seals. Their Jurassic Coast route heads east from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton, taking in the red Jurassic sandstone cliffs, sandy coves, and sea stacks that make this a World Heritage Site. A sea kayak is genuinely the best way to see this coastline — you can access beaches and coves that are unreachable on foot.
They offer guided safaris for half days, full days, and overnight camp trips. Fully qualified instructors teach you the basics and provide all safety gear, with double and single kayaks available so the whole family can participate. Activities can include wildlife watching, bushcraft, or simply relaxing on an otherwise inaccessible beach.
Devon Kayaks
Devon Kayaks covers an area from Lulworth Cove in Dorset to Looe in Cornwall, with beginner courses based at Exmouth, Teignmouth, and Exeter Quay. If you want a structured introduction to sea kayaking with a clear progression from beginner to competent paddler, their courses are a good option.
The River Teign
The River Teign flows for 31 miles from the hills of Dartmoor to the English Channel at Teignmouth. Its character changes dramatically along its length — from tumbling whitewater on the upper moor to the wide, tidal estuary below Newton Abbot.
For beginners, the tidal section of the Teign Estuary is the most accessible. The estuary is wide and sheltered, with excellent wildlife — wading birds are plentiful, and seals are occasionally spotted. The upper sections of the river above Chagford offer more challenging paddling with grade 2-3 rapids, suitable for experienced kayakers or those taking a guided course.
Teignbridge Canoe Club is a British Canoeing-affiliated club offering canoeing, kayaking, and SUP. Their initial taster and induction sessions cost just £10, and there are organised paddles every weekend — mostly in south Devon but occasionally venturing further afield. The club is welcoming to beginners and a fantastic way to meet regular paddling partners.
Joining a Club
If you want paddling to become a regular part of your life rather than an occasional outing, joining a club is the way to do it. Clubs provide access to equipment, organised trips, training, and — most importantly — a community of people who share your interest.
Exeter Canoe Club
Established in 1952, Exeter Canoe Club is based on the historic quayside and is involved in virtually every aspect of canoeing and kayaking. The club has a wide range of boats and equipment for members to use, and offers training for all levels. Membership ages range from about 10 to 70+.
The majority of the club's paddlers participate in recreational paddling — touring, sea kayaking, whitewater, surf kayaking, and open boating. The club's location on the River Exe and Exeter Ship Canal gives immediate access to flat water, while Devon's rivers and coastline provide everything else.
Their sea kayaking programme is particularly good, with regular trips to Devon's estuaries — the Exe, Dart, Teign, Plymouth Sound, and Salcombe — as well as coastal paddles year-round. They also run a five-week Sea Kayak Award course on Tuesday evenings, teaching manoeuvring in moving seas, paddling in winds up to force 4, rescue techniques, towing, weather reading, equipment, and navigation.
The club is affiliated to Paddle UK (formerly British Canoeing), and the social side is as important as the paddling. Regular club evenings, social events, and the shared experience of getting wet and cold together tend to create friendships quickly.
Teignbridge Canoe Club
Based in the Newton Abbot area, Teignbridge Canoe Club offers a similar programme of organised paddles, training, and social events. Their £10 taster sessions are a genuinely low-commitment way to try paddling and meet the members before deciding whether to join.
Paddling clubs are among the most welcoming sports clubs you will find. There is no expectation that you will be good — everyone capsizes at some point, and the communal experience of being slightly wet and slightly embarrassed is a powerful social leveller. If you are looking for a regular social activity that gets you outdoors, keeps you fit, and introduces you to a ready-made group of friendly people, a canoe club is hard to beat.
Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP): Devon's Fastest-Growing Water Activity
No guide to paddling in Devon would be complete without mentioning stand-up paddleboarding. SUP has exploded in popularity over the past few years, and Devon's sheltered waterways make it one of the best places in England to try it.
The beauty of SUP for beginners is its simplicity. You stand on a large, stable board and paddle with a single-bladed paddle. It is easier than it looks — most people are standing confidently within ten minutes — and it offers a completely different perspective on the water. You are higher up than in a kayak, which means better views, and the full-body balance required gives you a surprisingly good workout.
Where to Try SUP in Devon
Exeter Quay and the Canal is the obvious starting point. The flat, sheltered water of the canal is perfect for first-timers, and both Saddles & Paddles and AS Watersports hire SUP boards alongside their kayak and canoe fleets. The same route to the Double Locks that works for kayaking is equally lovely on a paddleboard — and arguably even more peaceful, since you are standing in silence with a bird's-eye view of the marshland wildlife.
Exmouth is an excellent step up from the canal. The sheltered waters at the mouth of the Exe Estuary are relatively shallow even at high tide, making it a safe and scenic spot for building your confidence. Edge Watersports in Exmouth offers introductory SUP sessions with qualified coaches, starting with a safety briefing and land-based training before a guided tour on the water. If you are planning a day out in Exmouth, combining a morning SUP session with lunch on the seafront is a brilliant way to spend it.
The River Dart at Totnes offers SUP experiences through Paddle Devon, who hire boards and run guided trips. Paddleboarding on the tidal estuary gives you access to the same stunning scenery as kayaking, with the added pleasure of being able to see into the clear water beneath you — keep an eye out for fish, crabs, and the occasional seal.
If you are choosing between a kayak and a SUP for your first time on the water, consider the wind. Kayaks are lower and less affected by breeze, making them more forgiving on blustery days. SUP boards catch the wind more easily, so pick a calm day for your first session. That said, on a still summer evening, there is nothing quite like gliding along the Exeter Canal on a paddleboard as the sun goes down.
The Best Paddling Adventures Beyond the Basics
Once you have a few sessions under your belt, Devon opens up a whole world of paddling adventures that are perfect for groups of friends.
The Dart Loop: This roughly 10-mile round trip from Totnes to Dittisham and back is one of England's classic estuary paddles. The route takes you through the heart of the Dart Valley AONB, past seal colonies, kingfisher haunts, and the pretty riverside village of Dittisham. Time it with the tides and the river does most of the work. Several operators in Totnes offer guided versions.
Overnight canoe camping on the Dart: For a proper adventure, you can canoe and wild camp from Totnes to Dartmouth over two days. Several operators, including Canoe Adventures, offer fully guided versions of this trip with camping equipment and meals provided. Arriving at Dartmouth by water, setting up camp, and cooking over a fire with friends is the kind of experience that creates stories you will be telling for years. Our guide to camping in Devon has more ideas for groups.
The Jurassic Coast by sea kayak: Sea Kayak Exmouth's guided trips along the coast from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton take in World Heritage Site red sandstone cliffs, sea caves, and beaches only accessible from the water. It is a half-day adventure that feels like a proper expedition. For more on what makes this coastline special, see our guide to Budleigh Salterton.
Evening and moonlight paddles: Canoe Adventures on the Dart run their famous "Pub to Pub and Back by Moonlight" trips during summer months. Paddling a tidal estuary under a full moon, with bioluminescence occasionally lighting up your paddle strokes, is an experience that sits somewhere between meditation and magic.
When to Paddle: A Seasonal Guide
Devon's paddling season runs year-round for the committed, but the experience varies dramatically by season.
Spring (March–May): The rivers are full from winter rain, the countryside is bursting into life, and the hire centres are opening for the season. Water temperatures are still cold (around 8–12°C), so a wetsuit is advisable for anything beyond a short paddle. The advantage is quieter waterways and the chance to see nesting birds, bluebells along the riverbanks, and lambs in the fields alongside the Dart. Spring is also when the Devon countryside comes into bloom.
Summer (June–August): Peak season, and for good reason. Water temperatures reach 16–18°C on the rivers (warmer in sheltered pools), the days are long, and the estuaries are busy with boats, wildlife, and fellow paddlers. This is when the Double Locks beer garden is at its best, when you can comfortably paddle in shorts and a t-shirt, and when the evening trips on the Dart are at their most atmospheric. Book hire equipment in advance, especially on weekends.
Autumn (September–October): Perhaps the most beautiful time to paddle in Devon. The leaves turn the Dart Valley into a corridor of gold and amber, the summer crowds have gone, and the water is still warm enough for comfortable paddling in a thin wetsuit. The estuary wildlife is spectacular in autumn as migrating birds arrive. Combine a paddle with a visit to one of Devon's cider farms for a properly seasonal day out.
Winter (November–February): For experienced paddlers and club members only. Water temperatures drop below 8°C, daylight is limited, and a drysuit becomes essential. But winter paddling has its own stark beauty — frost on the riverbanks, mist rising from the water, and the absolute silence of a Devon river on a cold morning. The clubs listed above run regular winter paddles for those with the right gear and experience.
What You Need to Know Before You Start
Equipment
If you are hiring from one of the centres listed above, everything is provided — boat, paddle, buoyancy aid, and usually a drybag for your valuables. You just need to bring yourself and appropriate clothing.
What to Wear
There is no need for specialist gear when you are starting out. In summer, shorts and a t-shirt are fine — you will get splashed but probably not fully submerged. In spring and autumn, wear synthetic layers that dry quickly (avoid cotton, which stays cold and wet). A lightweight waterproof jacket is useful for wind and spray. Water shoes or old trainers that you do not mind getting wet are better than flip-flops or bare feet.
For more serious paddling in colder water, a wetsuit or drysuit becomes important — but the hire centres and clubs will advise on this.
Safety
All the providers listed in this guide provide buoyancy aids and safety briefings. The key rules are simple: always wear your buoyancy aid, stay with your group, tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back, and check the weather and tide before you set off.
On the Exeter Canal, the risks are minimal — the water is calm and shallow, and you are never far from the bank. On tidal rivers and the sea, conditions can change, so guided trips are recommended until you are confident.
Tides
Understanding tides is essential for estuary and sea paddling. The basic principle is simple: paddle with the tide, not against it. On the Dart Estuary, this means launching before high tide and paddling downstream on the flood, then returning on the ebb. Your hire centre or guide will advise on timing — get this right and the river carries you; get it wrong and you will have a very long paddle home.
The Social Magic of Paddling
There is a particular quality to the friendships that form on the water. Maybe it is the shared vulnerability — you are both slightly out of your comfort zone, relying on each other, and aware that the river does not care about your job title or your social media following. Maybe it is the way that conversation flows when your body is occupied with a simple, rhythmic task. Maybe it is just the endorphins and the fresh air.
Whatever it is, paddling together tends to accelerate the process of getting to know someone. A three-hour canoe trip on the Dart will teach you more about a person than three months of coffee dates. You will see how they handle a tricky current, whether they panic or laugh when they ship water, and how they respond when you accidentally paddle in circles for five minutes. These are small things, but they are revealing — and they are the raw material of real connection.
Devon's rivers, estuaries, and coastline offer some of the best paddling in England. But the water is just the setting. The real point is the people you share it with.
If paddling whets your appetite for more outdoor adventures in Devon, our guides to wild swimming spots across Devon, the best water sports in Devon, and exploring Dartmoor are worth a look. And if you prefer to stay dry, our guide to the best gastropubs in Exeter and Devon will help you find the perfect post-paddle pub.
For official paddling safety guidance and to find affiliated clubs near you, visit British Canoeing (formerly Paddle UK). Their Go Paddling website has an excellent interactive map of launch points, routes, and hire centres across Devon and the rest of the country.